The First Five Expeditions
JOHN McDOUALL STUART
SURVEYOR-EXPLORER 1815 - 1866
Stuart's First Expedition
Stuart's First Expedition
The vital phase of Stuart's career began when he embarked as leader on the first of six expeditions into the interior. Financed by Finke, he left Oratunga Station (at that time the Chambers brothers' head station) near the modern day town of Blinman in the Flinders Ranges on May 14, 1858. He was accompanied by George Forster and an unnamed aboriginal youth, to search for new pastoral lands and minerals in the north-west of South Australia.
Andamooka Waterhole, discovered on 21st June 1858
He was also searching for a strange land which the aborigines called Wingillpin. Stuart took only six horses and provisions for one month - his instruments being a pocket compass and a watch.
On June 26 1858, he made the European discovery of a large creek with 'permanent waters', in the arid region south west of Lake Eyre. He later named it "Chambers Creek" * after his friend and future sponsor, James Chambers.
Note: *Chambers Creek is now known as Stuart Creek.
This was the only major discovery on this expedition but it eventually proved to be 'the key that opened the way to the centre of the continent'. Stuart continued to the north west but, near modern day Coober Pedy, he reluctantly turned to the south-west. Stuart did not realise the wealth of opal in the region, concealed beneath the peculiar flinty stones which were inflicting his horses with much suffering.
Ironstone country west of Lake Torrens.
courtesy L McArthur
Mt Finke
courtesy S Langman
courtesy L McArthur
With provisions low and the horses in poor condition, they now faced a gruelling journey through the waterless wilderness of the eastern fringes of the Great Victoria Desert. The aboriginal youth turned back, probably convinced the two white men would starve to death. On August 16, 1858, thanks to Stuart's exceptional navigation, they arrived at Miller's Water on the coast, just west of Denial Bay, and eventually returned to the settled districts on September 11, 1858, after a journey of some 2,400 kilometres and an absence of four months. Stuart again suffered from the effects of scurvy and rested at Mt Arden Station. This expedition established Stuart's reputation as an explorer and bushman of outstanding ability. The news of Stuart's journey was received in Adelaide and also in London with great acclamation. The Royal Geographical Society honoured him by awarding a gold watch.
Mt Finke
courtesy S Langman
It is evident from Stuart's journal entry for July 1st 1858 that, even at this stage of his career, he was thinking of reaching the centre of the continent.
While Europeans were engaged in unravelling the geographical mysteries of the Australian continent, explorers in the field of science had presented Samuel Finley Breese Morse (an American) with the technical apparatus to produce the electric telegraph. On January 24, 1838, he gave a public demonstration of his invention.
In 1855, the dynamic Charles Todd was appointed Government Astronomer and Superintendent of Telegraphs in South Australia. Within six years, four of the mainland colonies were telegraphically linked. There was growing interest and commercial pressure to link Australia to Europe by the telegraph.
1858 Route
Stuart's Second Expedition
In October, 1858, Stuart applied to the government for a pastoral lease on Chambers Creek, which exceeded in area his entitlement as the discoverer. Negotiations were protracted. In order to 'fast track' his application, Stuart volunteered to survey his chosen blocks rather than wait for the government surveyors. As a result,the main aim of his second expedition (April - July1859) was to survey his chosen blocks at Chambers Creek.
Chambers Creek, a.k.a. Stuart Creek.
A vital location in the north of South Australia.
A vital location in the north of South Australia.
He was accompanied by three men and fourteen horses. With the survey completed, he explored to the north-west and discovered 'wonderful country,.. scarcely to be believed'.
April to July 1859 Route
Stuart's Third Expedition
When Stuart returned to Adelaide, he was all 'fired up' to make an attempt to cross the continent. The Government had announced a prize of 2000 pounds in cash to the first European to cross the continent, and establish a route for an overland telegraph line from Adelaide to the north coast. Charles Todd, who was preparing a report for the Government on the Overland Telegraph, was greatly encouraged by Stuart's reports of valuable country near South Australia's northern boundary. Stuart's sponsors, Chambers and Finke, put forward a proposal for an expedition to be led by Stuart. For reasons not included in this text, it was rejected by the Government and they selected instead, Alexander Tolmer. This expedition ended in chaos before leaving the settled districts.
Unfortunately for Stuart, his initial survey of Chambers Creek encroached on land discovered by Benjamin Babbage and Major Peter Egerton-Warburton, who had travelled into the region following news of Stuart's discoveries. Stuart left Adelaide in August 1859 on his third expedition, primarily to re-survey his land claim. He was accompanied by William Darton Kekwick,two other men and twelve horses. This union with Kekwick established a partnership which would be central to Stuart's future success.
With his own survey completed, Stuart surveyed additional claims for his sponors, explored the region to the west of Lake Eyre and established the northern limits of the lake. He also searched for mineral deposits and discovered new springs fed by the waters of the Great Artesian Basin. The many fine creeks and good grass-lands he found appeared suitable for grazing livestock - discoveries of significant potential value for his sponsors.
Stone cone built by Stuart on Mt. Charles, west of Lake Eyre, while surveying for Chambers' & Finke, on the 3rd Expedition, 19th November 1859.
Meanwhile, the colony of Victoria, which for some time had contemplated sending an exploring expedition into the interior, was assembling the greatest exploring expedition in Australia's history. No expense would be spared for the Burke & Wills Expedition - camels were even imported from India.
November 1859 to January 1860 Route
Stuart's Fourth Expedition
When Stuart left his base camp at Chambers Creek on March 2, 1860, (his fourth expedition) he was embarking on the most adventurous undertaking of his career. Accompanied by William Darton Kekwick, Benjamin Head, and with thirteen horses, they travelled north and became the first Europeans to cross the northern boundary of South Australia and enter what is now the Northern Territory from the south. For the first time Europeans gazed upon the 'red centre'. The small party went on to discover other geographical features including Chambers Pillar, the Finke River, the James, Waterhouse and MacDonnell Ranges.
Chambers Pillar.
courtesy Ossies Outback 4WD Tours
courtesy Ossies Outback 4WD Tours
On Sunday April 22, 1860, Stuart wrote in his journal,
"Centre of Australia
Today I find from my observation of the O LL 111° 00' 30" that I am now camped in the centre of Australia."
The next day, Monday April 23, Stuart and Kekwick climbed a nearby mountain, built a cone of stones, raised the Union Jack and named it Mount Sturt after Stuart's leader of 1844-45. A message announcing their arrival was written on paper, placed in a bottle and buried within the cone of stones.
Memorial, with Central Mt Stuart in background.
Despite failing health, a shortage of provisions and scarcity of water, they managed to move north of present day Tennant Creek. On June 26, 1860, at a site now known as Attack Creek, the well-armed local Warramunga men launched an attack which terminated one of the most meritorious exploring expeditions in Australia's history. Stuart and his two companions were some 2400 kilometres from Adelaide, on starvation rations they now faced a return journey with the waters drying up and the horses in poor condition. By Monday afternoon, on August 20, 1860, Stuart's half-starved party enjoyed the taste of a swan which they shot at Freeling Springs. That day in Melbourne, thousands gathered to farewell the Burke and Wills Expedition.
On his return to Adelaide in October 1860, Stuart was ranked among the greatest of the explorers. Some claimed that he had already crossed the continent because he had travelled as far northward as the latitude to which, in 1856, A.C. Gregory had penetrated. Although he had narrowly failed to cross the continent, his achievement in crossing the centre was immense. The Royal Geographical Society in London awarded him the Patron's Medal, only the second person (after Dr Livingston) to be given double honours by that august body. The 'veil over the centre' of Australia was removed - Stuart's achievement in attaining the Centre was acclaimed as equal to Speke's discovery of the source of the Nile.
Intercolonial rivalry now surfaced. Stuart's method of travel was unique at that time, and very rapid compared to conventional expeditions. Certain critics in Victoria doubted the truth of Stuart's Journal. They suggested it was not possible to travel as far north in the time recorded and Stuart had either faked or mis-calculated his latitude.
1860 Route
Stuart's Fifth Expedition
Despite having returned to Adelaide on October 7th 1860, Stuart again set out to cross the continent on November 1st 1860. The South Australian Parliament, now inspired by Stuart's success, and hopeful of finding a route for an overland telegraph, voted a sum of £ 2500 pounds for Stuart to lead a larger, better equipped expedition. By way of comparison, £ 12,000 had initially been spent on the Burke & Wills Expedition.
The organisation of this expedition was carried out by Police Inspector George Hamilton, with some provisions and horses supplied by James Chambers. Having caught the train to Kapunda, Stuart travelled by mail cart to Clare, where an impromptu ball was held at the Thistle and Shamrock Hotel.
The expedition left Chambers Creek on January 1, 1861 with twelve men and forty-nine horses. The extreme heat encountered soon took its toll on the men and horses. Stuart decided to reduce the party to ten, and sent two men back with five horses which were in poor condition. Stuart's progress north was slowed by the continual search for water and feed for the horses. On February 11, 1861, Burke and Wills reached tidal waters on the muddy estuary of the Bynoe River, near the shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria. Stuart and his party were camped at Coglin Creek, near the northern border of South Australia.
Stuart Waterhole.
Beyond Attack Creek, Stuart made many attempts to cross waterless scrubby country to the northwest, in the hope of reaching the Victoria River. Then, some 240 kilometres to the north he discovered "a splendid sheet of water" which became later known as Newcastle Waters.
This journey was Stuart's first experience as leader of a large party. His second officer, Kekwick, was always the man left in charge at the main camp while Stuart, accompanied by Francis William Thring or several others, scouted ahead for water. The physical exertion required in continually searching for waters contributed greatly to Stuart's poor health.
Anna's Reservoir, Central Australia.
courtesy Ossies Outback 4WD Tours.
courtesy Ossies Outback 4WD Tours.
With provisions low, the men showing the effects of short rations and the horses in poor condition, Stuart again admitted defeat and it is noteworthy that at this time he chose to name a newly discovered watercourse "Burke's Creek after my brother explorer".
As Stuart's party made its way home, a search party led by Alfred Howitt reached Cooper's Creek and found the only survivor of Burke's party, John King, living with the aborigines. King informed Howitt of the deaths of Burke, Wills and Gray.
On Stuart's return, the South Australian Government at once agreed to finance another expedition under Stuart's leadership. The plan was to follow his previous route to Newcastle Waters but, instead of attempting to reach the Victoria River, he should continue northwards to pick up the headwaters of the Adelaide River and follow that down to the sea at Escape Cliffs.
1861 Route
The sixth and final, successful, expedition was titled : The South Australian Great Northern Exploring Expedition. It ran from 1861to 1862 .
It is detailed seperately in the Expeditions section of the main menu.
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